Via ferrata Selbhorn - Herzogsteig

The original ascent through the southwest face of the Selbhorn was built in 1907. Johann Moßhammer (ÖTK Maria Alm) was responsible for the construction along with the mountain guide Johann Herzog. Very few technical aids and no markings were installed. The ascent was intended only for mountaineers who find their way without markings, using only directional cairns. In guide literature, the ascent was called "Moßhammersteig" or "Herzogsteig." Not to be confused with the routes of the same name on the Hochsailer in the Hochkönig massif. In the following years, footholds (e.g., the red chisel) and a steel cable were added in the Keilpromenade at the steep sections. Later, some bolts were placed by mountain guides to better secure their guests. In 2014, this mix of climbing path and via ferrata was equipped over long sections with steel cables and "direction cables" (static textile ropes).

The via ferrata to the Selbhorn – the north summit is the highest peak of the Steinernes Meer – is a huge route requiring about 1800 meters of altitude to overcome. The via ferrata matches large parts of the old Herzogsteig. Some passages have been relocated for better rock quality and climbing pleasure. From the Lechneralm onwards, there is no hut, bivouac shelter, or water available along the entire route. Thus, endurance and good fitness are required. The efforts are rewarded with solitude in the mountains and spectacular landscapes. From the Rohrmoos parking lot, where the information board is located, first ascend on a forest road, then on a marked hiking trail to the Lechneralm. Leave the unmanaged alpine hut on the left and, following the markings, ascend steeply through the forest and open areas to the Braggstein at 1827 m. Rest spot directly at the small hunting hut. Over the dwarf pine-covered ridge to a fork in the path. There, turn left and ascend steeply below the southwest cliffs of the Selbhorn. The junction to the via ferrata is at 2210 m and marked by an information board. Following the trail marks shortly leads to a bench (tying-in place). Another info and planning board is located at the bench.

From the entry, always follow the steel cables over slabby ramps and grooves - C - traverse along a wide ledge secured with a textile rope - A - continue over slabs always along the edge to the "Straubinger Rest." - B and C - Now follows the very original passage of the "Keilpromenade" and the "Herzogkamin." - C - After the chimney, airy around the corner and steeply up to the next slab ramp. - C - Over flat slabs - B - continue and then turn right into a small gorge (textile rope). Shortly somewhat steeper into a winding passage (textile rope) and over bulges - B and C - to a large cave that offers a wonderful resting place. Continue along the textile ropes and then change from the west side to the southeast side of the Selbhorn - A - continue over varied passages to the "Örgei Schnaggl," airy, staying on the ridge, on to a short vertical wall. - C - Upon reaching the top, the traverse along textile ropes to the summit wall follows. - A - Over slabby steps straight upwards, steeply and airy traverse left and steeply continue to the exit at the ridge. - C/D - Now always follow the textile ropes in easy climbing to under the red groove directly under the summit. Through the groove, somewhat loose, straight up and after a few meters to the summit cross at 2643 meters.

Descent:

From the summit cross, follow the marked path to the north summit of the Selbhorn (2655 m). A short steep section is overcome with the help of a steel cable. You can visit the north summit. Usually, however, one descends directly westward following the markings and steel cables into the Luegscharte (2451 m). There, keep left and follow the marked but partly unpleasant scree terrain path to the ascent trail. Continue as ascent. Alternatively, you can descend via the Buchauer Scharte, about 30 minutes more effort, as the Mandlköpfe must be circumvented. This descent is somewhat less exposed than the descent via the Luegscharte.

This via ferrata is only suitable for experienced, sure-footed, and enduring via ferrata climbers! The day tour has almost 2000 m elevation. This circumstance should be considered in tour planning! Be sure to follow the information on the planning board at the Rohrmoos parking lot and at the start of the via ferrata. Only ascend to the summit in stable weather, with an early start and enough drinking reserves. The descent from the summit and over the Luegscharte runs over steep scree terrain. So you should be sure-footed – those who are not should choose the descent via the Buchauerscharte (about 30 minutes additional effort)!

Especially in early summer, long snow remnants persist in the steep cirque below the Luegscharte. These then have to be crossed on the descent. If you encounter old snow on the approach and don't have an ice axe and crampons, you should better turn back.

Information and maps:

Alpine Club map 10/2 Hochkönig-Hagengebirge, 1:25,000 BEV ÖK-UTM 3215 Saalfelden, 1:50,000 BEV ÖK-BMN 124 Saalfelden, 1:50,000 Kompass WK 15 Tennengebirge-Hochkönig, 1:50,000 Freytag & Berndt WK 103 Pongau - Hochkönig - Saalfelden, 1:50,000

www.bergsteigen.com www.alpenvereinaktiv.com

Time schedule:

Approach from the Rohrmoos parking lot to the entry - 3.5 hours Via ferrata - 2 to 2.5 hours

Descent via Luegscharte to the Rohrmoos parking lot 4.5 hours. Descent via Buchauerscharte to the Rohrmoos parking lot 5 hours.

© Markus Hirnböck